My ideal day consists of walking around NYC, eating oysters, going to museums to see great quantities of art and then finishing with an incredible meal. This is precisely what I did with my family during our trip last month. My boys were fine until about hour 3 at the Met, when they just wanted to leave to grab a hot dog and run wild. They were fed up with all the talk of brush strokes, juxtapositions, impressionists and cubists. Yeah, it was a stretch for them, but I figure someday they will appreciate me for it, or not? We grabbed them a snack to take the edge off and then headed to dinner. I was so excited for this meal because devi is the restaurant owned by my dear friend Suvir and his food always brings me joy. I was also thrilled to be sharing the evening with my family, including my mother and my aunt and uncle. My aunt Sally’s mother grew up in India and had introduced me to Indian cuisine when I was a kid, in fact, Sally introduced me to most foods when I was a kid. I knew she would fall quickly in love with devi.
(picture of Suvir by Charlie Burd, picture of devi by Ben Fink)
I met Suvir several years ago at a pastry conference hosted at the CIA. Suvir was one of the presenters. He talked about blending more flavors of the world into the palate of American desserts. He was confident Americans want to experience flavors beyond vanilla and chocolate, and I whole heartedly agree with him. His food at the conference was intense, fresh and clean. You could taste every spice and ingredient. It was unlike any other Indian food I’d ever eaten. I was in awe and have been ever since. He has become a mentor, a brother and a dear friend to me. His skills go way beyond the kitchen. He and his partner Charlie have established a farm where they raise animals and run the American Masala empire. They design kitchen accessories, write cookbooks and Suvir is on a team at Harvard to educate people on how to eat a healthier diet. Now you see why I am in awe. But, the reason I fell in love with this chef was only partly because of his food, it is also his generosity and heart. He and Charlie give back to their community and to society as a whole. They are the epitome of good people!
More about our meal at devi, a Sticky Toffee Cake with Nut Brittle Ice Cream recipe:
(pictures of food at devi by Ben Fink)
Here is a sampling of the meal we ate at devi. By the time we got to the second course my 11 year old son leaned over to me and said “Mom, I’m sorry I was so fussy at the museum, this is really fun!” The power of really good food. We sat and ate for more than 3 hours. The staff was incredible, the wines were thoughtfully matched and the atmosphere is both glamourous and comfortable. When the lamb chops (bottom left) came to the table my 9 year old declared that “they are cooked to perfection!” He ended up with a pile of bones on his plate as he talked everyone at the table into giving him their chops. Clever kid.
(pictures of devi desserts by Ben Fink)
The pastry chef sent out a sampling of every dessert on the menu, a gesture of deep understanding of what would make me happy. When my boys not-so- discretely devoured a couple without me getting a chance to try them, our waiter promptly brought more. I tried to protest, but then was seduced by the mango cheesecake and instantly cleaned the plate. The coconut-lemongrass sorbet was so lovely and fresh that I could have eaten a pint. We were all happy to point of laughter and tears at what a memorable evening it was. An experience everyone should have.
You can find an updated recipe for sticky toffee-date cake in my cookbook Zoë Bakes Cakes.
Sticky Toffee Cake and Nut Brittle Ice Cream
inspired by American Masala by Suvir Saran
This is a cake that I recently have fallen in love with and have tried almost every version from here to Australia. A cake that is most often called a pudding. The cake is made pudding-like by adding sweet sticky dates to it, then a sweet toffee sauce is poured over the top, which seeps in. This version in honor of American Masala has fresh ginger and other spices just as Suvir inspired me to do the first time we met. See me make the cake step by step below, then head to the bottom of this post for the full recipe.
To make the cake:
Grease an 8 x 8-inch baking pan (or 18 muffin cups) generously with butter
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
In a small pot bring the dates and water to a boil, turn the heat down, add the baking soda and simmer for 5 minutes.
Pour the dates into the bowl of a food processor, add the sugar and blend. Add the eggs and combine. Add the fresh ginger and vanilla and pulse to combine.
While the machine is running slowly add the melted butter.
Dump the date mixture into a large mixing bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together and then add them to the date mixture, only mix until combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes (muffin cup version should be checked after 20 minutes) or until tester comes out clean.
While the cake is baking make the Toffee Sauce: Heat the butter, sugar, cream, rum and salt in a medium sauce pan and simmer until the sugar is disolved.
Poke holes all over the cake with a skewer and pour half the hot syrup over the hot cake. Return to the oven for about 3 minutes.
To make the Brittle: Heat the sugar, water, and cornsyrup in a large sauce pan over high heat. Allow it to boil untouched until it starts to turn amber in color. At this point watch it carefully. Stir the caramel so it doesn’t burn, it tends to caramelize unevenly. Once it is a nice dark caramel color (it may even start to smoke slightly) add the nuts and baking soda and stir. The mixture will foam when the baking soda is added.
Pour the brittle onto a silpat and quickly spread it out. Cool completely. Can be made days ahead and kept in an air tight container.
Once you are ready to make the ice cream break up some of the brittle in a mortar and pestle. This one was designed by Suvir.
Fold the brittle into your vanilla ice cream.
Top the cake with ice cream and pour on a bit more of the sauce.
Ingredients
Cake
- 8 oz dates
- 1 1/4 cup water
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 large eggs
- 1 tsp freshly grated ginger
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 stick butter melted
- 1 cup cake flour
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
Toffee Sauce
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 cup packed brown sugar
- 3/4 cup heavy cream
- 2 tbsp rum or brandy
- 1 tsp molasses
- pinch salt
Nut Brittle for Ice Cream
- 3 cups raw nuts (chopped or whole depending on the size) peanuts, slivered almonds, cashews, pecans, pistachios, or walnuts
- 4 cups sugar
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 tbsp corn syrup
- pinch salt
- 1/4 tsp baking soda
- vanilla ice cream
Instructions
Cake
- Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan (or 18 muffin cups) generously with butter.
- In a small pot bring the dates and water to a boil, turn the heat down, add the baking soda and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Pour the dates into the bowl of a food processor, add the sugar and blend. Add the eggs and combine. Add the fresh ginger and vanilla and pulse to combine. While the machine is running slowly add the melted butter.
- Dump the date mixture into a large mixing bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together and then add them to the date mixture, only mix until combined.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes (muffin cup version should be checked after 20 minutes) or until tester comes out clean.
Toffee Sauce
- While the cake is baking, heat the butter, sugar, cream, rum and salt in a medium sauce pan and simmer until the sugar is dissolved.
- Poke holes all over the cake with a skewer and pour half the hot syrup over the hot cake. Return to the oven for about 3 minutes.
Brittle
- Heat the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a large sauce pan over high heat. Allow it to boil untouched until it starts to turn amber in color. At this point watch it carefully. Stir the caramel so it doesn't burn, it tends to caramelize unevenly. Once it is a nice dark caramel color (it may even start to smoke slightly) add the nuts and baking soda and stir. The mixture will foam when the baking soda is added.
- Pour the brittle onto a silicone baking mat and quickly spread it out. Cool completely. Can be made days ahead and kept in an air tight container.
- Once you are ready to make the ice cream break up some of the brittle in a mortar and pestle. Fold the brittle into your vanilla ice cream. Top the cake with ice cream and pour on a bit more of the sauce.
DEVI sounds like a great place to dine. My hubby and I will be in NYC singing at Carnegie so we could totally try this place while we are there! Thanks a bunch!
My favorite spice is garlic powder but mostly a tie with cumin. Yum!
Is garlic considered a spice? If it is that is my favorite I can’t get enough of it. I love to cook it for a long time and let it get sweet!
My favorite spices are cinnamon and garlic!
Cinnamon. I learned how to make crazy Granny Shelton’s cinnamon rolls, and my love and consumption of cinnamon has increased exponentially.
The picture of your sticky toffee cake literally stopped me in my websurfing tracks. I hit the back button for you darlin’. Can’t wait to try this recipe.
My favorite spice is salt. Because I use it almost everything. My second favorite is cumin because I wish I could use it in almost everything.
I absolutely love cumin in almost everything!!! I used to have a wooden mortar/pestle, but lost it along the way. This one’s lovely.
First – I love sticky toffee pudding and want to eat this right now! Second – I just got your book (Artisan Bread in 5 minutes a day) in the mail today and can’t wait to try out some recipes. Third – I love cinnamon and will try to put it on everything!
DEVI. Ginger–in granola, stirfries, and tea for an upset tummy.
DEVI. Ginger: in granola, stirfries, and tea for an upset tummy! Also, have you experienced ginger altoids?
DEVI. Ginger. I love crystallized in granola! Also, fresh ginger in stirfries and ginger tea for an upset tummy. And, have you ever had ginger Altoids?
cardamom and ginger, now
who knows next month
I’d have to go with basil, and fresh being my MOST fave. I freeze my leaves every summer for crushing into warm dishes throughout winter (terrific in soups!).
Zoe – You are something else my dear!
You make everything seem even more magical than it is.
You also have transformative powers unlike most I know. In your hands a good dessert becomes great and a great one ethereal and divine.
Thanks for your kind words and your support, always. You are a gift to have in our life. Charlie and I cherish your friendship and miss you dearly when away from you, which is most of the time. We do feel connected to you every time we enjoy your creations, the breads we now make at home, and the pizza that comes out of our oven, and charms one and all.
Hope you find strength in your cooking and in your sharing as you deal with the loss of your grandma. Please accept my condolences with this note. I will email you and call you as well. Just back from India and already on a plane, this time headed West to SF.
Will call as I land and email as well. How wonderful technology is that we can be connected with work and loved ones even as we fly.
Thanks for featuring this recipe, and also writing about your time at Devi. Appreciate your generous words and your time a great deal.
Best,
Suvir
DEVI – Being Indian, I love all spices and especially if they are ground fresh into a masala. My favourite spice would be ginger and garlic since we use it in Indian cooking.
Cinnamon is my favorite, it makes everything smell & taste so good, and in the summer months in our garden it has to be basil, just touching it makes the whole outdoors smell great. 🙂
Devi.
Fresh mint. Who could resist how fresh that smells and tastes in the Spring? I planted a small sprig of applemint which promptly took over one of my flower beds. People warned me that it was extremely invasive, and I just have yet to figure out why that is a problem? Hm. Extremely large quantities of fresh mint. Just can’t see a down side here.
I have two favorite spices. The first is cinnamon (and, ok, cardamom too) for sweets and then cumin for the savory dishes. I think that both really raise the bar on recipes and ALWAYS please my palate.
My favorite spice is cumin. I love it in chili and carnitas but I also use it whenever I want a little smokey flavor in anything.
Saffron! It just lifts a simple dish, either savoury or dessert! Lovely golden hue and hidden warm flavors that celebrate the palate…
Devi
My favorite spice is Chili Powder. My grandfather owned a Mexican / Latin American food store in St. Paul (MN) for many years, and was known far and wide for his chorizo recipe. The aroma of Chili Powder brings him back to me — I can see, hear, and smell all of those childhood memories!
DEVI
cinnamon above all else
Cinnamon is my favorite spice! But after moving to Seoul, garlic has become the one thing I use most.
Fresh Dill – there is no other smell that just makes me want to whip up a fresh dip!