My ideal day consists of walking around NYC, eating oysters, going to museums to see great quantities of art and then finishing with an incredible meal. This is precisely what I did with my family during our trip last month. My boys were fine until about hour 3 at the Met, when they just wanted to leave to grab a hot dog and run wild. They were fed up with all the talk of brush strokes, juxtapositions, impressionists and cubists. Yeah, it was a stretch for them, but I figure someday they will appreciate me for it, or not? We grabbed them a snack to take the edge off and then headed to dinner. I was so excited for this meal because devi is the restaurant owned by my dear friend Suvir and his food always brings me joy. I was also thrilled to be sharing the evening with my family, including my mother and my aunt and uncle. My aunt Sally’s mother grew up in India and had introduced me to Indian cuisine when I was a kid, in fact, Sally introduced me to most foods when I was a kid. I knew she would fall quickly in love with devi.
(picture of Suvir by Charlie Burd, picture of devi by Ben Fink)
I met Suvir several years ago at a pastry conference hosted at the CIA. Suvir was one of the presenters. He talked about blending more flavors of the world into the palate of American desserts. He was confident Americans want to experience flavors beyond vanilla and chocolate, and I whole heartedly agree with him. His food at the conference was intense, fresh and clean. You could taste every spice and ingredient. It was unlike any other Indian food I’d ever eaten. I was in awe and have been ever since. He has become a mentor, a brother and a dear friend to me. His skills go way beyond the kitchen. He and his partner Charlie have established a farm where they raise animals and run the American Masala empire. They design kitchen accessories, write cookbooks and Suvir is on a team at Harvard to educate people on how to eat a healthier diet. Now you see why I am in awe. But, the reason I fell in love with this chef was only partly because of his food, it is also his generosity and heart. He and Charlie give back to their community and to society as a whole. They are the epitome of good people!
More about our meal at devi, a Sticky Toffee Cake with Nut Brittle Ice Cream recipe:
(pictures of food at devi by Ben Fink)
Here is a sampling of the meal we ate at devi. By the time we got to the second course my 11 year old son leaned over to me and said “Mom, I’m sorry I was so fussy at the museum, this is really fun!” The power of really good food. We sat and ate for more than 3 hours. The staff was incredible, the wines were thoughtfully matched and the atmosphere is both glamourous and comfortable. When the lamb chops (bottom left) came to the table my 9 year old declared that “they are cooked to perfection!” He ended up with a pile of bones on his plate as he talked everyone at the table into giving him their chops. Clever kid.
(pictures of devi desserts by Ben Fink)
The pastry chef sent out a sampling of every dessert on the menu, a gesture of deep understanding of what would make me happy. When my boys not-so- discretely devoured a couple without me getting a chance to try them, our waiter promptly brought more. I tried to protest, but then was seduced by the mango cheesecake and instantly cleaned the plate. The coconut-lemongrass sorbet was so lovely and fresh that I could have eaten a pint. We were all happy to point of laughter and tears at what a memorable evening it was. An experience everyone should have.
You can find an updated recipe for sticky toffee-date cake in my cookbook Zoë Bakes Cakes.
Sticky Toffee Cake and Nut Brittle Ice Cream
inspired by American Masala by Suvir Saran
This is a cake that I recently have fallen in love with and have tried almost every version from here to Australia. A cake that is most often called a pudding. The cake is made pudding-like by adding sweet sticky dates to it, then a sweet toffee sauce is poured over the top, which seeps in. This version in honor of American Masala has fresh ginger and other spices just as Suvir inspired me to do the first time we met. See me make the cake step by step below, then head to the bottom of this post for the full recipe.
To make the cake:
Grease an 8 x 8-inch baking pan (or 18 muffin cups) generously with butter
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
In a small pot bring the dates and water to a boil, turn the heat down, add the baking soda and simmer for 5 minutes.
Pour the dates into the bowl of a food processor, add the sugar and blend. Add the eggs and combine. Add the fresh ginger and vanilla and pulse to combine.
While the machine is running slowly add the melted butter.
Dump the date mixture into a large mixing bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together and then add them to the date mixture, only mix until combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes (muffin cup version should be checked after 20 minutes) or until tester comes out clean.
While the cake is baking make the Toffee Sauce: Heat the butter, sugar, cream, rum and salt in a medium sauce pan and simmer until the sugar is disolved.
Poke holes all over the cake with a skewer and pour half the hot syrup over the hot cake. Return to the oven for about 3 minutes.
To make the Brittle: Heat the sugar, water, and cornsyrup in a large sauce pan over high heat. Allow it to boil untouched until it starts to turn amber in color. At this point watch it carefully. Stir the caramel so it doesn’t burn, it tends to caramelize unevenly. Once it is a nice dark caramel color (it may even start to smoke slightly) add the nuts and baking soda and stir. The mixture will foam when the baking soda is added.
Pour the brittle onto a silpat and quickly spread it out. Cool completely. Can be made days ahead and kept in an air tight container.
Once you are ready to make the ice cream break up some of the brittle in a mortar and pestle. This one was designed by Suvir.
Fold the brittle into your vanilla ice cream.
Top the cake with ice cream and pour on a bit more of the sauce.
Ingredients
Cake
- 8 oz dates
- 1 1/4 cup water
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 large eggs
- 1 tsp freshly grated ginger
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 stick butter melted
- 1 cup cake flour
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
Toffee Sauce
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 cup packed brown sugar
- 3/4 cup heavy cream
- 2 tbsp rum or brandy
- 1 tsp molasses
- pinch salt
Nut Brittle for Ice Cream
- 3 cups raw nuts (chopped or whole depending on the size) peanuts, slivered almonds, cashews, pecans, pistachios, or walnuts
- 4 cups sugar
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 tbsp corn syrup
- pinch salt
- 1/4 tsp baking soda
- vanilla ice cream
Instructions
Cake
- Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan (or 18 muffin cups) generously with butter.
- In a small pot bring the dates and water to a boil, turn the heat down, add the baking soda and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Pour the dates into the bowl of a food processor, add the sugar and blend. Add the eggs and combine. Add the fresh ginger and vanilla and pulse to combine. While the machine is running slowly add the melted butter.
- Dump the date mixture into a large mixing bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together and then add them to the date mixture, only mix until combined.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes (muffin cup version should be checked after 20 minutes) or until tester comes out clean.
Toffee Sauce
- While the cake is baking, heat the butter, sugar, cream, rum and salt in a medium sauce pan and simmer until the sugar is dissolved.
- Poke holes all over the cake with a skewer and pour half the hot syrup over the hot cake. Return to the oven for about 3 minutes.
Brittle
- Heat the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a large sauce pan over high heat. Allow it to boil untouched until it starts to turn amber in color. At this point watch it carefully. Stir the caramel so it doesn't burn, it tends to caramelize unevenly. Once it is a nice dark caramel color (it may even start to smoke slightly) add the nuts and baking soda and stir. The mixture will foam when the baking soda is added.
- Pour the brittle onto a silicone baking mat and quickly spread it out. Cool completely. Can be made days ahead and kept in an air tight container.
- Once you are ready to make the ice cream break up some of the brittle in a mortar and pestle. Fold the brittle into your vanilla ice cream. Top the cake with ice cream and pour on a bit more of the sauce.
Cardamon!
My favorite spice has to be Nutmeg. I don’t know what it is, but it’s not the hallucinogenic properties, I swear! I think it’s the smell.
I love cinnamon. It permeates the whole kitchen and one of my favorite christmas cookies are Zimtsterne (cinnamon stars). There never can be too much cinnamon in them.
DEVI
I really love to use cinnamon!
It is kind of like liking vanilla ice cream (which I love) but my favorite spice is good old fresh ground black pepper.
DEVI. Perhaps a long weekend trip is in the making…
Ginger has to be a favorite. It is versatile in both savory and sweet dishes lending a warmth and bright character to many recipes and cuisines. Lovely post Zoe…from a fan of all mentioned here!
Smoked Paprika. A new love of mine. What a beautiful evening you had to cherish for always.
I love so many BUT if I had to pick a favorite I LOVE cilantro 🙂
For me, cinnamon would win, hands down!
I love cardamom and nutmeg.
How can you have just one favorite spice? There are to many good ones to limit it to just one. I love anise but then there is cardamom, clove, garlic, mint, fennel and on and on. This cake looks luscious!
Hmmm. I’d have to go with nutmeg. Freshly grated. Ahh, it gets me every time! Especially on top of egg custard…http://zoedawn.wordpress.com/2010/12/02/egg-custard/
Cinnamon, turmeric, fresh ginger, cumin – hard to choose just one when you use them for different foods –
It’s very hard to choose. Cinnamon is one of the best.
Garlic or Basil for sure.
My favorite spice to use currently is cinnamon. Yum! Thanks.
Cinnamon, nutmeg, Mexican vanilla ———-they are heavenly!
DEVI. I am making this pudding ASAP it looks amazing. As for spice, I think I go through cinnamon and cayenne pepper the fastest!
Oh, this cake looks amazing! Since my current favorite spice is cardamom, this works well. 🙂
Even if I don’t win anything, please pass along our thanks to Suvir. I’m grateful he decided to share the recipe with us, too. 🙂
CJ
Wish I lived near NY!
My favorite spice is nutmeg. Until I took a cooking class, I had never used freshly grated nutmeg (nor used it in potatoes!). Now I would never use anything but freshly grated.
I enjoy going to the spice store and getting a little bit of this or that and trying a recipe around it.
DEVI
Do vanilla beans count as a spice? It’s like solid gold caviar to me!
Saffron,I am a indian and use it in desserts and as well as savoury dishes.The aroma and colour of saffron are very nice.Do try it.
What a wonderful giveaway…I use almost all the Indian spices in my cooking and my flavorful favorite definitely is Cumin…Thanks…
i’m torn between cardamom and nutmeg. i love freshly grated nutmeg. never liked the stuff before i had it fresh. and cardamom is so different and versatile – can be used in anything from indian dishes to scandinavian and everything in between
Cinnamon! – the real kind, I love to stick my nose in the jar and just breathe:)
And pretty much every dish I make (not dessert:) has garlic in it – I’m part Italian, mmmmm, gotta love that garlic!